Nakasendō

The route

The Nakasendō was one of the five great trunk roads (五街道) of Edo Japan, connecting Edo (modern Tokyo) and Kyoto via the central mountains rather than the Tōkaidō coastal route. It crossed 69 official post stations (宿場), many of which survive as preserved historic towns with the original tightly-packed wooden buildings.

Driving the modern Nakasendō is not a single road — it is a route concept, weaving along Route 17 from Tokyo through Saitama, then Route 18 into Nagano, then Route 19 through the Kiso Valley, and finally Route 21 + 1 into Kyoto. The most evocative sections are the Kiso Valley post towns (Tsumago, Magome, Narai), preserved in postwar restoration projects.

Unlike the high-speed Tōkaidō Shinkansen corridor, the Nakasendō is mostly two-lane mountain road through forested valleys. Speed averages 40–60 km/h. The reward is access to several of the best-preserved Edo-era streetscapes anywhere in the world, and a sense of the historic Japan that the express trains and expressways bypass.

We recommend the route in 5 days: Tokyo → Karuizawa, Karuizawa → Narai-juku, Narai → Tsumago, Tsumago → Magome (the famous post-town walk leaves the car in one and picks it up in the other), Magome → Kyoto via the Kiso valley exit.

Highlights

• Tsumago (妻籠) and Magome (馬籠) — the two best-preserved post towns; walk between them on the original Edo path while shuttling the car.
• Narai-juku (奈良井) — the longest preserved post town, 1 km of unbroken Edo streetscape.
• Karuizawa — historic summer retreat of the Meiji elite; a useful overnight after the climb out of Saitama.
• Kiso Valley (木曽路) — the wooded mountain heart of the route; cypress forests, hot springs, a few good ryokan.
• Magome Pass (馬籠峠) — the dramatic ridge between Magome and Tsumago, narrow road and stunning views.

Vehicle notes

Standard passenger car or kei-car works. Some original post-town parking is tight; an under-4-metre car is easier. Winter (Dec–Mar) requires snow tyres or chains for the central Honshū sections.

Waypoints

1. 0 km
   Nihonbashi (日本橋, Tokyo)

   The historic zero-marker of the Edo road system.

2. 70 km
   Kumagaya (Saitama)

   First day, leaving the Kantō plain.

3. 145 km
   Yokokawa

   Foot of the Usui Pass — historically the toughest section.

4. 175 km
   Karuizawa

   Overnight; cool mountain air, good ryokan.

5. 220 km
   Komoro

   Castle ruins, classic small-castle town.

6. 295 km
   Shiojiri

   Where the Nakasendō and Tōkaidō historically merged.

7. 320 km
   Narai-juku

   Stop. Park outside the historic town and walk the 1 km main street.

8. 360 km
   Kiso-Fukushima

   Hot-spring town; old check station (関所) preserved.

9. 410 km
   Tsumago

   Park, walk to Magome (8 km, 3 hr) via the Edo path.

10. 420 km
    Magome

    Hilltop post town; views over the Kiso valley.

11. 445 km
    Nakatsugawa

    Exit the Kiso valley.

12. 534 km
    Kyoto (Sanjō Ōhashi)

    Historic end of the Nakasendō.

Seasonality

Apr–May

Cherry blossoms in Karuizawa and the Kiso valley; mild driving conditions. Best season.

Jun–Jul

Rainy season (梅雨). Mountain sections can be foggy and slick; check 道路情報.

Aug

Hot in the lowlands; cool in the mountains. Karuizawa is a traditional summer retreat for this reason.

Sep–Oct

Autumn foliage from late October at high elevation. Excellent driving conditions.

Nov–Mar

Winter. Snow tyres or chains required for the central mountain sections. Several minor passes may close.

Practical notes

• Speed limits: typically 50 km/h on the two-lane mountain sections, 40 km/h through historic post towns. Read the regulatory signs carefully.
• Parking: free at trailheads; paid at preserved post towns (Tsumago, Magome, Narai). Allow 1–2 km on foot.
• Toll roads: avoidable. The Nakasendō was historically a non-toll alternative to the Tōkaidō; the modern route on Routes 17/18/19/21 is mostly free, with optional expressway connections (Jōshin'etsu Expressway, Chūō Expressway) for the boring lowland sections.
• Cell coverage: generally excellent on JR routes; can drop in the Kiso valley's tightest sections.
• Fuel: gas stations every 30–50 km on the main route. Top up before mountain sections; the Kiso valley has long stretches without 24-hour stations.

Related pages on this site

• Japan customs & border
• Japan driving basics
• Japanese road signs (catalog)
• 止まれ — Japanese STOP sign explainer
• 徐行 — Slow down explainer
• Falling rocks (落石のおそれあり)

Sources

1. [1]MLIT — Road Bureau — Japan MLIT · accessed 2026-04-23
2. [2]National Police Agency — Rules of the Road — Japan NPA · accessed 2026-04-23
3. [3]JAF — Japan Automobile Federation — JAF · accessed 2026-04-23